ITORVANI

Our cloth

Fabrics for Suits, Shirts and Trousers in Bangkok

Good tailoring starts with the right cloth. Here's what we work with - wool and merino for suits, linen for the heat, cotton for shirts and chinos, and the details inside, like linings. Come and feel every one of them in the shop before you choose.

Cloth
Mainly Italian and English
Weight
Usually 220–280 GSM for Bangkok
Choose
In person, in our shop
At your hotel
We bring the cloth books
A hand pointing at a colourful fabric swatch book with orange, red, pink, yellow and grey samples

01 · Suit cloth

Suit cloth

Our suit cloth is mostly wool and wool blends - mainly Italian and English. Wool breathes, springs back after a long day and keeps its shape. These are the kinds you'll see most.

Black-and-white close-up of grey suiting swatches with pinstripes, checks and small textured weaves

Suit cloth

Wool

The classic suit cloth. Smooth, easy to wear, and it springs back into shape after a long day. In a light weight, it's comfortable in Bangkok's heat.

Feels
Smooth and springy
In the heat
Cool in light weights
Creases
Rarely
Best for
Business and everyday suits
Bespoke suits →
Black-and-white photo of dark suiting fabric swatches laid out in rows

Suit cloth

Merino wool

Wool from merino sheep. The fibres are very fine, so the cloth feels soft on the skin and breathes well - a good choice for a suit you'll wear all day.

Feels
Soft and fine
In the heat
Cool
Creases
Rarely
Best for
All-day suits and travel
Business suits →
Textured blue bespoke jacket with a grey felt under-collar on a mannequin

Suit cloth

Wool blends

Wool mixed with other fibres. The more wool in the cloth, the better it breathes and holds its shape. Blends are easier on the budget and easy to care for.

Feels
Smooth
In the heat
Depends on the wool content
Creases
Rarely
Best for
Work suits you wear often
Business suits →
Wool, linen and silk blend fabric swatches in charcoal, blue and green

Suit cloth

Wool, linen and silk

Three fibres in one cloth: wool for shape, linen for air, and silk for a soft sheen. It has a gentle texture that looks great on summer suits and jackets.

Feels
Light, with texture and a soft sheen
In the heat
Very cool
Creases
A little
Best for
Summer suits and jackets
Blazers and jackets →

02 · Cloth for hot days

Cloth for hot days

Bangkok has two seasons: hot, and a little less hot. These fabrics are made for it - light, breathable and relaxed.

Sleeve of an olive linen bespoke jacket with four teal buttons on the cuff

Cloth for hot days

Linen

Made from the flax plant. It's one of the coolest cloths you can wear, with a dry, crisp feel. It creases easily - that's part of its relaxed charm, not a fault.

Feels
Crisp and dry
In the heat
Coolest
Creases
Yes - part of the look
Best for
Summer jackets, trousers and shirts
Blazers and jackets →
Man wearing a tailored light blue-grey linen blazer with beige trousers

Cloth for hot days

Cotton and linen blends

Cotton mixed with linen. You get most of linen's cool feel, with fewer creases and a softer touch. Easy to wear from lunch to dinner.

Feels
Soft and light
In the heat
Very cool
Creases
Some
Best for
Casual jackets and blazers
Blazers and jackets →
Man in a tailored light pink dress shirt and high-waisted grey trousers standing by a pond

Cloth for hot days

Chino (cotton twill)

A light, strong cotton twill - the cloth behind classic chinos. Smart enough for the office on a Friday, relaxed enough for the weekend.

Feels
Soft but sturdy
In the heat
Cool
Creases
Some
Best for
Trousers and casual wear
Tailored trousers →

03 · Shirt cloth

Shirt cloth

Our shirts are made in cotton, in a range of weaves and weights. These are the two you'll meet most.

Three custom shirt cuffs in white, light blue and striped fabric, each with a monogram

Shirt cloth

Cotton poplin

A smooth, light cotton with a clean finish. It feels cool and crisp, which makes it a good pick for Bangkok's heat.

Feels
Smooth and crisp
In the heat
Very cool
Creases
Some
Best for
Office and dress shirts
Bespoke shirts →
Striped cotton shirt fabric swatch card showing the colour options

Shirt cloth

Cotton oxford

A heavier cotton with a small basket-like texture. It has more body and structure, and a relaxed look that works with or without a tie.

Feels
Soft, with texture
In the heat
Cool
Creases
Some
Best for
Casual and smart-casual shirts
Bespoke shirts →
Two men in tailored white dress shirts standing in front of shirt fabrics

Shirt cloth

More than the cloth

Collar, cuff and fit are all your choice, and every shirt is cut to your own measurements - not adjusted from a standard size.

How our shirts are made →

04 · Evening wear and linings

Evening wear and linings

The cloth for a black-tie night, and the details inside every jacket that only you get to see.

Black tuxedo jacket with satin lapels and a bow tie on a mannequin in a library setting

Evening wear and linings

Fine wool and wool-mohair

For tuxedos we use fine wool or a wool-mohair blend, chosen for how it looks under evening light and how comfortable it stays through a long event.

Feels
Fine, with a slight sheen
In the heat
Cool
Creases
Rarely
Best for
Tuxedos and dinner jackets
Tuxedos →
Client in a white double-breasted tuxedo jacket with navy trim buttoning the jacket

Evening wear and linings

Satin and grosgrain

Used on tuxedo lapels and the stripe down the trouser leg. Satin is smooth and shiny; grosgrain has fine ribs and a softer shine.

Feels
Smooth shine, or fine ribs
Best for
Tuxedo lapels and trouser stripes
Tuxedos →
Navy pinstripe jacket with a light blue paisley jacquard lining and red contrast piping

Evening wear and linings

Linings

The cloth inside your jacket. Choose from our lining library - solid colours, jacquard patterns or contrast piping - at no extra cost.

Feels
Smooth, so the jacket slides on
Best for
Inside every jacket
Bespoke suits →

At a glance

Compare our fabrics

A quick guide to how each cloth feels and wears. Every fabric can vary with its weight and weave, so feel them in person before you decide.

How our fabrics compare in feel, heat, creasing and use
FabricFeelsIn Bangkok's heatCreasesBest for
WoolSmooth and springyCool in light weightsRarelyBusiness and everyday suits
Merino woolSoft and fineCoolRarelyAll-day suits and travel
Wool blendsSmoothDepends on the wool contentRarelyWork suits you wear often
Wool, linen and silkLight, with texture and a soft sheenVery coolA littleSummer suits and jackets
LinenCrisp and dryCoolestYes - part of the lookSummer jackets, trousers and shirts
Cotton and linen blendsSoft and lightVery coolSomeCasual jackets and blazers
Chino (cotton twill)Soft but sturdyCoolSomeTrousers and casual wear
Cotton poplinSmooth and crispVery coolSomeOffice and dress shirts
Cotton oxfordSoft, with textureCoolSomeCasual and smart-casual shirts
Fine wool and wool-mohairFine, with a slight sheenCoolRarelyTuxedos and dinner jackets

Wool content

Wool content, in plain words

Our suits come in three wool contents. More wool means a suit that breathes better and keeps its shape longer. Every one is still cut from your own pattern.

How a bespoke suit is made →
  • 20% wool, 30% silk, 50% viscoseBasic. Easy care for suits you wear hard and replace. Fused inside.
  • 80% / 60% wool blendsHigh End. A little less breathable, and lighter on the budget. Half-canvassed.
  • 100% woolPremium. Breathes best and keeps its shape the longest. Fully canvassed.

Choosing

How to choose cloth for Bangkok

The right cloth makes the difference between a suit you love and a suit you avoid from March to May. Four things to check:

  1. 01

    Check the weight

    Cloth weight is measured in GSM - grams per square metre. Lighter cloth is cooler. We usually suggest 220–280 GSM, suited to Bangkok's heat and humidity.

  2. 02

    Look at the weave

    An open weave lets air pass through. A tight, dense weave holds heat in, even when the cloth is thin.

  3. 03

    Think about colour

    Light colours reflect the sun; dark colours hold heat. Navy and mid-grey are the easy middle ground.

  4. 04

    Pick natural fibres

    Wool, linen and cotton breathe. Cloth with a lot of polyester can trap heat and feel sticky by lunchtime.

Want more detail? Read our guide to the best fabrics for Bangkok's climate.

Inside the ITORVANI bespoke tailor shop at Platinum Fashion Mall, with fabric rolls, suit mannequins and the illuminated ITORVANI sign

See it, touch it

Feel the cloth before you choose

Photos only tell you so much. In our shop at Platinum Fashion Mall, the walls are lined with rolls of cloth, so you can touch, hold and compare before you decide.

Staying in Sukhumvit, Silom, Siam or Riverside? We bring cloth books to your hotel room or the lobby, at no extra charge.

Fabric questions

Two customers going through fabric swatch books and catalogues at a table

Google reviews

What customers say on Google

5.0out of 5 on Google
Read our reviews on Google
  • Google
    “Excellent service and quality, there are many competitors on the floor. I went to most of the shops, I recommend not wasting your time at other shops. Just go here, made to measure, excellent fabrics and turn around time. I will be back!”
    Ray KraftGoogle reviewRead on Google
  • Google
    “The service was perfect. Communication was smooth, and it was even delivered to the hotel 24 hours after the measurements were taken. The fabric quality is great.”
    Manfred SchachnerGoogle reviewRead on Google
  • Google
    “Just finished the four pants with them and they delivered an absolutely fantastic job. These pants fit perfectly well. The material is perfect. The alignment is perfect. The hemming on the outside is hidden the buttons look phenomenal. Everything is aligned. You guys did an incredible job. I would truly recommend you to somebody else out there.”
    kiril gaspGoogle reviewRead on Google

Quoted word for word - tap any review to read the original on Google. “…” marks where a long review is shortened.

Black-and-white photo of dark suiting fabric swatches laid out in rows

Choose your cloth in person

Book a fitting and see every fabric in the shop. No commitment until you've decided.